VRANOV ROCK FORTRESS
(PANTHEON)
Welcome to Vranov – the country‘s
largest rock castle. Along with its „farming“ courtyards
it is nearly 400 m long and is considered to be the longest
and most complex fortified rock settlement ever built in
the Czech Kingdom.
Fortress description
At the beginning
of the violent 15th century, this narrow steep and jagged
sandstone cliff was turned into a natural fortress and a
wooden watch-tower (accessible only by a narrow, steep staircase
dug into the rock) was erected at its highest point. A large
number of rooms, dungeons and cellars were dug into the
soft sandstone rock. Frequent (and still noticeable) grooves
and cuttings in the rock show that mostly timber and wood
were used to fortify the tops of the rock faces, to bridge
the gaps and to build dwellings. Some of the constructions,
however, were walled, like the quadrangle living tower,
remnants of which are still visible today. The whole rock
settlement was divided into an upper castle core and a fortified
„farming“ section. The fortress territory was far larger
than it appears today.
Supplying the vast fortress with water presented considerable
problems. The deep well, preserved up until today, was situated
somewhat outside the rock cliff so had to be fortified too.
Vranov served as a sentry castle until the beginning of
the 16th century. It was then abandoned and became desolate
over time. Its medieval pattern was changed by reconstructions
inspired by Romantacism at the beginning of the 19th century.
Vranov medieval history
The castle was founded
in 1425 by Heník of Wallenstein, as one of the last castles
in the region. The Wallensteins held the fortress throughout
the 15th century, without interfering much in the Hussite
wars or later religious wars in the period of King George
of Poděbrady. Lord Šťastný of Wallenstein, however, who
stood firmly on the side of the protestant King George had
numerous armed skirmishes with his catholic neighbours.
Jindřich (Henry) of Wallenstein sold the castle and the
domain to the Wartenberg family in 1583. By then, the Vranov
domain was a very rich one, encompassing over 50 villages
on a vast piece of land stretching from Turnov to Jablonec,
and parts of the towns of Turnov and Železný Brod. By this
time the castle and domain were called simply „Skály“ (The
Rocks), or Vartemberské Skály (The Wartenberg Rocks), to
be distinguished from the nearby Hrubá Skála (The Huge Rock).
The inevitable period of decline started when the castle
was owned by Jan of Wartenberg. As early as around 1500
a simple but comfortable manor house was built in the valley
under the castle. In safer times, Jan turned the manor house
into a country mansion and made it the new centre for the
domain renamed Malá Skála (The Little Rock). Vranov fortress
was abandoned and left to decay. The whole domain was purchased
in 1615 by the protestant lord Albrecht Jan Smiřický of
Smiřice.
Jan Albrecht was a passionate protestant and one of the
leaders of the Czech Protestant Lords Uprising against the
catholic Emperor Matthias of Habsburg. After the tragic
defeat of the Uprising at the Battle of Bílá Hora (White
Mountain) in 1620 the Malá Skála domain was confiscated
from the Smiřický family and given to the imperial general
Albrecht of Wallenstein, one of the most powerful miltary
leaders of 17th century Europe. Albrecht granted the domain
as a feudatory to his collonell Nicholas Desfours. Desfours
owned Malá Skála untill 1802.
Turning the fortress into
Pantheon (the Römisch reconstruction)
The Malá Skála domain
(including the desolateVranov castle) was purchased in 1802
by the wealthy textile trader Franz Zacharias Römisch -
a „nouveau riche” from the North-Czech town of Nixdorf (today
Mikulášovice). Römisch was rich enough to buy not only the
domain but also his aristocratic title. Inspired by the
idealism of European Romanticism he decided to turn the
castle ruins into a Pantheon – a memorial to outstanding
persons of his epoch (in ancient Greek, „Pan“ means „all,
entire“, while „Theós“ means God).
In the castle ruins (but also in the adjacent forests) he
errected tens of memorials and monuments celebrating great
writers and poets, legendary heroes, Czech Kings and outstanding
military leaders. Their selection not only corresponded
to Römisch ideals and the cultural atmosphere of European
Romanticism, but also reflected Czech patriotism: although
he himself was an ethnic German from the catholic Austrian
Empire borderlands. He, in one place, celebrated mythological
figures from ancient Czech History (Princess Libuše, heroes,
such as Záboj and Horymír) the great Czech King who perished
in battle with the Habsburgs (Přemysl Otakar) or the protestant
king George of Poděbrady. Other memorials are dedicated
to Austrian military leaders who fought Napoleon, German
mythological heroes or to Shakespeare, Goethe, Cervantes
and Rabelais.
It took over 20 years to finish this grandiose project.
The works were completed by the building of a summer pleasure
house in the form of a chapel in the Romantic Neo-Gothic
style (1826). Immediately after Römisch‘s death the Pantheon
began to fall into disrepair as his offspring showed little
understanding for the romantic passion of their idealistic
ancestor and gave the Pantheon neither money not time. Much
of what was once the Pantheon was destroyed and is lost
forever. Nevertheless, the Vranov - Pantheon retains the
remarkable (even if perhaps somewhat bizarre) connection
of the medieval fortress ruins with the ideals of 19th century
European Romanticism.
|
|